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Main
Date: 11 Mar 2007 14:19:42
From: dalton
Subject: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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Hey there, everyone.
I've had an Isomac Tea for about four years now, and I've finally come
up with a problem that's got me stumped. I can't count the number of
times I'd had to open the thing up over the years, but this doesn't
seem like a leaky hose or loose wire.
The Tea is producing intermittenly producing no heat. Sometimes when I
wake up, everything is normal, and the steam gague reads 1.2 bar or so.
Other times, it's totally flat at 0. But it will change throughout the
day. If I leave it on, the heat will come back after an hour, and then
turn off after another hour.
When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But
that's only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve
this problem?
Thanks,
Dalton
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Date: 26 Mar 2007 21:07:08
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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On 26, 9:39 pm, "dalton" <daltonroo...@gmail.com > wrote:
> Rats. I finally got the thermal cutout in the mail and replaced it
> over the weekend. I thought I had the problem licked, since it was
> running all weekend, but I just checked, and the darn thing is off.
> That is, the orange light on top is on, but it's not heating up and
> neither of the other two lights are on.
>
> Dave-I ran your series of tests, and put both wires on the same screw
> on the SSR. Even though the green light was lit on the SSR, the boiler
> didn't heat up.
>
> This seems like it must be related to heat, somehow. It always works
> for the first hour or so before cutting out. Does this point to the
> heating element, the SSR, or a trip back to the factory?
>
> I think I asked before, but does anyone know of someone who will do a
> repair in New York City. I'm not looking forward to boxing this thing
> up and sending it somewhere...
>
> Thanks again for everyone's help. Cheers.
> Dalton
>
> On 17, 6:54 am, "daveb" <davebobbl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > unplug!
> > and move the wires(s) from one of the large bolts on the SSR and screw
> > it down under the other large screw on the SSR.
>
> > It should heat. DO NOT leave it in this condition. replace the wires
> > immediately after testing.
>
> > If it does not heat IMHO you have a bad thermal cutout (fuse) or a bad
> > heating element. -- or a bad (*%&*R*^%$%)(@$% connector somewhere.
>
> > dave
If you have "shorted" the 2 wires on the output side of the SSR -- by
putting all of them under one of the screws, the pstat and SSR are
eliminated from the circuit and it MUST heat up. . . .
so the problem then is just about only in the heater or the wiring
assuming the new thermal fuse / cutout (etc) is OK.
Chriscoffee in Albany USED to work on Isomac. I still do, somewhat
reluctantly.
dave
910 616 0980
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Date: 26 Mar 2007 18:39:26
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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Rats. I finally got the thermal cutout in the mail and replaced it
over the weekend. I thought I had the problem licked, since it was
running all weekend, but I just checked, and the darn thing is off.
That is, the orange light on top is on, but it's not heating up and
neither of the other two lights are on.
Dave-I ran your series of tests, and put both wires on the same screw
on the SSR. Even though the green light was lit on the SSR, the boiler
didn't heat up.
This seems like it must be related to heat, somehow. It always works
for the first hour or so before cutting out. Does this point to the
heating element, the SSR, or a trip back to the factory?
I think I asked before, but does anyone know of someone who will do a
repair in New York City. I'm not looking forward to boxing this thing
up and sending it somewhere...
Thanks again for everyone's help. Cheers.
Dalton
On 17, 6:54 am, "daveb" <davebobbl...@gmail.com > wrote:
> unplug!
> and move the wires(s) from one of the large bolts on the SSR and screw
> it down under the other large screw on the SSR.
>
> It should heat. DO NOT leave it in this condition. replace the wires
> immediately after testing.
>
> If it does not heat IMHO you have a bad thermal cutout (fuse) or a bad
> heating element. -- or a bad (*%&*R*^%$%)(@$% connector somewhere.
>
> dave
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Date: 17 Mar 2007 03:54:32
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
On 16, 11:39 pm, dalton <daltonroo...@nospam.gmail.com > wrote:
> OK, I peeled the tape off the bottom of the SSR, cleaned everything up,
> and stuck some thermal grease in there, and ran the machine with the
> cover off for a while. It ran normally for about 1 hour before the heat
> cut out. Same problem - power on, but no heat.
>
> Interesting to note that the little green light on the SSR is on and
> solid even though there's no heat being produced. When the light comes
> on, the orange light on the front is supposed to come on, and the
> boiler heats up, doesn't it? This is supposed to last only for a second
> or two, but when it's not producing heat, the green light on the SSR
> stays on indefinitely.
>
> My very crude intuition tells me that this means that the pressurestat
> is working properly, then, and the problem is further down the line.
> Does this sound right? Does anyone have any further troubleshooting
> tips for me?
>
> Thanks again for all the help offered so far!
>
> Dalton
>
you had the foam tape! good job getting rid of that. install screws
when you have a chance.
do you have a meter? 5 or $10.
measure for voltage on the two big pins coming out of the end of the
boiler.
should be about 120 volts. when it quits heating --
unplug!
and move the wires(s) from one of the large bolts on the SSR and screw
it down under the other large screw on the SSR.
It should heat. DO NOT leave it in this condition. replace the wires
immediately after testing.
If it does not heat IMHO you have a bad thermal cutout (fuse) or a bad
heating element. -- or a bad (*%&*R*^%$%)(@$% connector somewhere.
dave
I do not have a diagram for the tea, but
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Date: 13 Mar 2007 07:03:38
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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On 13, 12:24 am, "Paul Pratt" <p...@just-java.com > wrote:
> I'd say 1. either P-stat is sticky, 2. ontrol box is overheating as
> Alan said and it 3. wouldn't hurt to install a new vacuum breaker.
>
I will be heatsinking the SSR tonight and looking for the thermal cut-
out this weekend. Can someone remind me what to do about a sticky
pressurestat? Is that something I can fix, or do I need to replace it?
> Thanks to Dave b for pointing out the uninsulated LIVE terminal spade
> on the main terminal block! Why leave an element of risk and not
> stick a $0.05 crimp terminal or a piece of heat shrink over it?
>
Thanks, I did see that too. This machine seems to have a lot of cut
corners, as evidenced by all of the tubing and plastic fittings I've
had to replace, as well as the special valve to prevent vacuum lock.
And it seems like every time I open it, I slice myself real good on
the rough metal edges.
That said, when it's working, the coffee is like heaven.
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 21:24:08
From: Paul Pratt
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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On 13, 2:00 am, "Dan Bollinger" <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com >
wrote:
> > In re-reading your suggestion about the microswitch under the tank,
> > I'm wondering if I did a bad job of describing the problem. The power
> > always remains on. It's the heat that is intermittent. So the orange
> > power light at the top of the machine is always on, but the orange/
> > green lights that report the heater activity are out.
>
> > Does this make a difference?
>
> Yes, I had forgotten what you said about the panel lights. Which leads m=
e to
> believe it is not the tank switch, but since I don't have a wiring shemat=
ic I
> can't say for sure, so it would be best to rule this out by jumpering the=
switch
> leads.
>
> I'm still thinking that you have a sticking pressurstat, remember my caut=
ion
> about contacts?
>
> Take Dave's advice, heatsink the SSR. When you buy your Thermal Cut-Out =
(TCO)
> get a tube of silicone heatsink grease, too.
>
> btw: it is not a fuse (amperage activated), but a temperature over-limit =
device,
> or thermal cut-out (heat activated). They are a one-shot deal. Mine is an
> NTE8181 (364=B0 C)
>
> Dan
Just checked my 220v versions. Tank switch powers the entire control
box. Control box switches element via the p-stat, wiring is black.
I'd say 1. either P-stat is sticky, 2. ontrol box is overheating as
Alan said and it 3. wouldn't hurt to install a new vacuum breaker.
Thanks to Dave b for pointing out the uninsulated LIVE terminal spade
on the main terminal block! Why leave an element of risk and not
stick a $0.05 crimp terminal or a piece of heat shrink over it?
Paul
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 09:24:55
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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On 12, 11:56 am, "dalton" <daltonroo...@gmail.com > wrote:
> On 12, 10:18 am, "Dan Bollinger"
>
>
>
> <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com> wrote:
> > >> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of
> > >> water?
>
> > >> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme control box
> > >> can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground) which tells the
> > >> controller that the tank is full.
>
> > I had forgotten about that circuit. I converted my machine to plumbed two years
> > ago. If that circuit is open, or the switch is open, the machine will turn off.
> > The spring platform my tank used to sit on could get stuck, something to do with
> > the springs getting jammed in the holes. I don't know if the microswitch under
> > the tank drives the control box or not, I think not. I think it just interupts
> > the main power and is in series with the on/off switch. Either way, check that
> > switch for continuity, or simply jump its wires together and see if that solves
> > the problem.
>
> > If memory serves, the heater circuit has nothing to do with the control box.
> > It's circuit is quite simple, power goes through the fusible link, pressurestat,
> > then powers the SSR on and off.
>
> > Dan
>
> In re-reading your suggestion about the microswitch under the tank,
> I'm wondering if I did a bad job of describing the problem. The power
> always remains on. It's the heat that is intermittent. So the orange
> power light at the top of the machine is always on, but the orange/
> green lights that report the heater activity are out.
>
> Does this make a difference?
>
> I'll be replace the fuse on the boiler and re-insulate the SSR as soon
> as I can, hopefully within a day or two. We'll see if that does the
> trick.
The goal is NOT to re-insulate the SSR!! Isomac may have already
foolishly done that for you, which is totally WRONG.
any tape etc. MUST be cleaned away and the SSR firmly screwed down
to the chassis, with heat transfer grease in between. IF indeed, it
is still any good.
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 09:23:40
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
On 12, 11:56 am, "dalton" <daltonroo...@gmail.com > wrote:
> On 12, 10:18 am, "Dan Bollinger"
>
>
>
> <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com> wrote:
> > >> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of
> > >> water?
>
> > >> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme control box
> > >> can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground) which tells the
> > >> controller that the tank is full.
>
> > I had forgotten about that circuit. I converted my machine to plumbed two years
> > ago. If that circuit is open, or the switch is open, the machine will turn off.
> > The spring platform my tank used to sit on could get stuck, something to do with
> > the springs getting jammed in the holes. I don't know if the microswitch under
> > the tank drives the control box or not, I think not. I think it just interupts
> > the main power and is in series with the on/off switch. Either way, check that
> > switch for continuity, or simply jump its wires together and see if that solves
> > the problem.
>
> > If memory serves, the heater circuit has nothing to do with the control box.
> > It's circuit is quite simple, power goes through the fusible link, pressurestat,
> > then powers the SSR on and off.
>
> > Dan
>
> In re-reading your suggestion about the microswitch under the tank,
> I'm wondering if I did a bad job of describing the problem. The power
> always remains on. It's the heat that is intermittent. So the orange
> power light at the top of the machine is always on, but the orange/
> green lights that report the heater activity are out.
>
> Does this make a difference?
>
> I'll be replace the fuse on the boiler and re-insulate the SSR as soon
> as I can, hopefully within a day or two. We'll see if that does the
> trick.
The goal is NOT to re-insulate the SSR!! Isomac may have already
foolishly done that for you, which is totally WRONG.
any tape etc. MUST be cleaned away and the SSR firmly screwed down
to the chassis, with heat transfer grease in between. IF indeed, it
is still any good.
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 08:56:24
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
On 12, 10:18 am, "Dan Bollinger"
<danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com > wrote:
> >> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of
> >> water?
>
> >> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme control box
> >> can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground) which tells the
> >> controller that the tank is full.
>
> I had forgotten about that circuit. I converted my machine to plumbed two years
> ago. If that circuit is open, or the switch is open, the machine will turn off.
> The spring platform my tank used to sit on could get stuck, something to do with
> the springs getting jammed in the holes. I don't know if the microswitch under
> the tank drives the control box or not, I think not. I think it just interupts
> the main power and is in series with the on/off switch. Either way, check that
> switch for continuity, or simply jump its wires together and see if that solves
> the problem.
>
> If memory serves, the heater circuit has nothing to do with the control box.
> It's circuit is quite simple, power goes through the fusible link, pressurestat,
> then powers the SSR on and off.
>
> Dan
In re-reading your suggestion about the microswitch under the tank,
I'm wondering if I did a bad job of describing the problem. The power
always remains on. It's the heat that is intermittent. So the orange
power light at the top of the machine is always on, but the orange/
green lights that report the heater activity are out.
Does this make a difference?
I'll be replace the fuse on the boiler and re-insulate the SSR as soon
as I can, hopefully within a day or two. We'll see if that does the
trick.
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 13:00:37
From: Dan Bollinger
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
> In re-reading your suggestion about the microswitch under the tank,
> I'm wondering if I did a bad job of describing the problem. The power
> always remains on. It's the heat that is intermittent. So the orange
> power light at the top of the machine is always on, but the orange/
> green lights that report the heater activity are out.
>
> Does this make a difference?
Yes, I had forgotten what you said about the panel lights. Which leads me to
believe it is not the tank switch, but since I don't have a wiring shematic I
can't say for sure, so it would be best to rule this out by jumpering the switch
leads.
I'm still thinking that you have a sticking pressurstat, remember my caution
about contacts?
Take Dave's advice, heatsink the SSR. When you buy your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
get a tube of silicone heatsink grease, too.
btw: it is not a fuse (amperage activated), but a temperature over-limit device,
or thermal cut-out (heat activated). They are a one-shot deal. Mine is an
NTE8181 (364° C)
Dan
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 04:35:52
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
On 11, 7:02 pm, dalton <daltonroo...@nospam.gmail.com > wrote:
> Well, no luck. I got home after a couple of hours out, and there was no
> steam in the boiler again. Now, about 15 minutes ago, it came back on.
>
> Interesting to note that while the main power light is on, neither the
> red or the green light indicators are on. Also, the machine remains
> fairly hot, even when there appears to be no steam in the boiler.
>
> Dave - is the fuse on the boiler something I can find anywhere, or just
> at a specialty store?
>
> Thanks again,
> Dalton
>
> On 2007-03-11 10:44:42 -0400, "daveb" <davebobbl...@gmail.com> said:
>
> > On 11, 10:38 am, "Dan Bollinger"
> > <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com> wrote:
> >>> When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But that's
> >>> only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve this problem?
>
> >> 90% of the time, in appliances, the problem is electrical contacts. Especially
> >> so with intermittent problems. Check for loose wiring and crimps. You
> >> may have a
> >> problem with the contacts in your pressurestat.
>
> >> Dan
>
> > Dan is so correct. I have seen Isomacs where the wires going INTO the
> > crimp connector were NEVER crimped at the factory!
>
> > so, pull on each and every connector in the machine. NONE should come
> > off in your hand!
>
> > Also look for burned connectors -- and for good measure, change the $2
> > thermal fuse on the end of the boiler.
>
> > Dave
> > I fix 'em not sell 'em
>
> > 877 286 2833
no it is a stock part used on many things. just take the sample with
you.-- get the correct temp rating.
check the water tank switch
and CfC has a point it may be the auto refill controller box also.
run it with the covers off -- see if that affects anything.
d
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 12:20:22
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
PS: Can someone let me know if Dr. Jim's advice in this online post
might be of use to me:
http://www.home-barista.com/forums/expobar-office-lever-will-not-get-hot-t1197.html
He
said:
> "Hmmm ...
>
> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of water?
>
> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme
> control box can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground)
> which tells the controller that the tank is full.
>
> There's a picture of a Giemme controller here:
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/etorres/junior_espresso/Personal5.html
>
> Click on the control box for a better look"
If I do, in fact, have the same control box, would this tell me that
it's the part I need to replace?
Thanks again, everybody!
On 2007-03-12 07:35:52 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com > said:
> no it is a stock part used on many things. just take the sample with
> you.-- get the correct temp rating.
>
> check the water tank switch
>
> and CfC has a point it may be the auto refill controller box also.
>
> run it with the covers off -- see if that affects anything.
>
> d
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 10:17:28
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
Oh and make certain your solid state realy is not mounted with the infamouse
Isomac double sided (insulating) foam tape!!
really!
dave
"dalton" <daltonrooney@nospam.gmail.com > wrote in message
news:2007031208174350073-daltonrooney@nospamgmailcom...
> PS: Can someone let me know if Dr. Jim's advice in this online post might
> be of use to me:
>
> http://www.home-barista.com/forums/expobar-office-lever-will-not-get-hot-t1197.html
>
> He
> said:
>
>> "Hmmm ...
>>
>> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of
>> water?
>>
>> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme control
>> box can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground) which
>> tells the controller that the tank is full.
>>
>> There's a picture of a Giemme controller here:
>>
>> http://homepage.mac.com/etorres/junior_espresso/Personal5.html
>>
>> Click on the control box for a better look"
>
> If I do, in fact, have the same control box, would this tell me that it's
> the part I need to replace?
>
> Thanks again, everybody!
>
>
>
> On 2007-03-12 07:35:52 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com> said:
>
>> no it is a stock part used on many things. just take the sample with
>> you.-- get the correct temp rating.
>>
>> check the water tank switch
>>
>> and CfC has a point it may be the auto refill controller box also.
>>
>> run it with the covers off -- see if that affects anything.
>>
>> d
>
>
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| | | | |
Date: 17 Mar 2007 03:39:20
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
OK, I peeled the tape off the bottom of the SSR, cleaned everything up,
and stuck some thermal grease in there, and ran the machine with the
cover off for a while. It ran normally for about 1 hour before the heat
cut out. Same problem - power on, but no heat.
Interesting to note that the little green light on the SSR is on and
solid even though there's no heat being produced. When the light comes
on, the orange light on the front is supposed to come on, and the
boiler heats up, doesn't it? This is supposed to last only for a second
or two, but when it's not producing heat, the green light on the SSR
stays on indefinitely.
My very crude intuition tells me that this means that the pressurestat
is working properly, then, and the problem is further down the line.
Does this sound right? Does anyone have any further troubleshooting
tips for me?
Thanks again for all the help offered so far!
Dalton
On 2007-03-12 10:17:28 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com > said:
> Oh and make certain your solid state realy is not mounted with the
> infamouse Isomac double sided (insulating) foam tape!!
>
> really!
>
> dav
|
| | | | | |
Date: 03 Apr 2007 17:38:50
From: Dan Bollinger
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
Dalton, See the recent post titled "My Giemme control box fix", it may help
with your problem, too. Dan
"dalton" <daltonrooney@nospam.gmail.com > wrote in message
news:2007031623363416807-daltonrooney@nospamgmailcom...
> OK, I peeled the tape off the bottom of the SSR, cleaned everything up, and
> stuck some thermal grease in there, and ran the machine with the cover off for
> a while. It ran normally for about 1 hour before the heat cut out. Same
> problem - power on, but no heat.
>
> Interesting to note that the little green light on the SSR is on and solid
> even though there's no heat being produced. When the light comes on, the
> orange light on the front is supposed to come on, and the boiler heats up,
> doesn't it? This is supposed to last only for a second or two, but when it's
> not producing heat, the green light on the SSR stays on indefinitely.
>
> My very crude intuition tells me that this means that the pressurestat is
> working properly, then, and the problem is further down the line. Does this
> sound right? Does anyone have any further troubleshooting tips for me?
>
> Thanks again for all the help offered so far!
>
> Dalton
>
>
> On 2007-03-12 10:17:28 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com> said:
>
>> Oh and make certain your solid state realy is not mounted with the infamouse
>> Isomac double sided (insulating) foam tape!!
>>
>> really!
>>
>> dav
>
>
|
| | | |
Date: 12 Mar 2007 10:12:41
From: daveb
Subject: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
"dalton" <daltonrooney@nospam.gmail.com > wrote in message
news:2007031208174350073-daltonrooney@nospamgmailcom...
> PS: Can someone let me know if Dr. Jim's advice in this online post might
> be of use to me:
>
> http://www.home-barista.com/forums/expobar-office-lever-will-not-get-hot-t1197.html
Does not apply to yours.
replace the cheap parts first.
yes that is the correct gimme box.
dave
|
| | | |
Date: 12 Mar 2007 09:18:26
From: Dan Bollinger
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
>> I wonder if the control box believes that your pour-over tank is out of
>> water?
>>
>> This was a fairly common issue on some Isomacs, and on the Giemme control box
>> can be tested by jumping pin 7 (sensor) to pin 12 (ground) which tells the
>> controller that the tank is full.
I had forgotten about that circuit. I converted my machine to plumbed two years
ago. If that circuit is open, or the switch is open, the machine will turn off.
The spring platform my tank used to sit on could get stuck, something to do with
the springs getting jammed in the holes. I don't know if the microswitch under
the tank drives the control box or not, I think not. I think it just interupts
the main power and is in series with the on/off switch. Either way, check that
switch for continuity, or simply jump its wires together and see if that solves
the problem.
If memory serves, the heater circuit has nothing to do with the control box.
It's circuit is quite simple, power goes through the fusible link, pressurestat,
then powers the SSR on and off.
Dan
|
| | |
Date: 12 Mar 2007 12:15:07
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
>
> no it is a stock part used on many things. just take the sample with
> you.-- get the correct temp rating.
>
> check the water tank switch
>
> and CfC has a point it may be the auto refill controller box also.
>
> run it with the covers off -- see if that affects anything.
>
> d
Thanks Dave and CfC. I'll try to get that fuse replaced shortly. The
water tank switch seems to be fine, it turns the entire machine on and
off with no problems.
The brain box is this one?
http://www.chriscoffee.com/products/home/isomacparts/giemmeboard
Thanks for the suggestion of running with the cover off for a few days.
I will give that a shot.
Does anyone know of a decent repair shop in NYC if this turns out to be
more than I can handle? I'd like to avoid shipping the machine if
possible.
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Date: 11 Mar 2007 07:44:42
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
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On 11, 10:38 am, "Dan Bollinger"
<danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com > wrote:
> > When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But that's
> > only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve this problem?
>
> 90% of the time, in appliances, the problem is electrical contacts. Especially
> so with intermittent problems. Check for loose wiring and crimps. You may have a
> problem with the contacts in your pressurestat.
>
> Dan
Dan is so correct. I have seen Isomacs where the wires going INTO the
crimp connector were NEVER crimped at the factory!
so, pull on each and every connector in the machine. NONE should come
off in your hand!
Also look for burned connectors -- and for good measure, change the $2
thermal fuse on the end of the boiler.
Dave
I fix 'em not sell 'em
877 286 2833
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Date: 11 Mar 2007 23:02:08
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
Well, no luck. I got home after a couple of hours out, and there was no
steam in the boiler again. Now, about 15 minutes ago, it came back on.
Interesting to note that while the main power light is on, neither the
red or the green light indicators are on. Also, the machine remains
fairly hot, even when there appears to be no steam in the boiler.
Dave - is the fuse on the boiler something I can find anywhere, or just
at a specialty store?
Thanks again,
Dalton
On 2007-03-11 10:44:42 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com > said:
> On 11, 10:38 am, "Dan Bollinger"
> <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com> wrote:
>>> When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But that's
>>> only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve this problem?
>>
>> 90% of the time, in appliances, the problem is electrical contacts. Especially
>> so with intermittent problems. Check for loose wiring and crimps. You
>> may have a
>> problem with the contacts in your pressurestat.
>>
>> Dan
>
> Dan is so correct. I have seen Isomacs where the wires going INTO the
> crimp connector were NEVER crimped at the factory!
>
> so, pull on each and every connector in the machine. NONE should come
> off in your hand!
>
> Also look for burned connectors -- and for good measure, change the $2
> thermal fuse on the end of the boiler.
>
> Dave
> I fix 'em not sell 'em
>
> 877 286 2833
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Date: 12 Mar 2007 00:16:03
From: Coffee for Connoisseurs
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
Almost certainly the brain box. As it heats up, the relay fails. Once things
have cooled down, it clicks on again. Solution is to replace it.
--
Alan
alanfrew@coffeeco.com.au
www.coffeeco.com.au
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Date: 11 Mar 2007 19:41:35
From: dalton
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
Thanks Dan & Dave. I took the thing apart this afternoon. While nothing
seemed loose, I reseated each and every cable for good measure. When I
turned it back on, everything seemed to work OK.
Like I said, this is intermittent, so I may be back in a day or two
with a status update. For now, muchas gracias.
Dalton
On 2007-03-11 10:44:42 -0400, "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com > said:
> On 11, 10:38 am, "Dan Bollinger"
> <danNObollin...@insightSPAMbb.com> wrote:
>>> When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But that's
>>> only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve this problem?
>>
>> 90% of the time, in appliances, the problem is electrical contacts. Especially
>> so with intermittent problems. Check for loose wiring and crimps. You
>> may have a
>> problem with the contacts in your pressurestat.
>>
>> Dan
>
> Dan is so correct. I have seen Isomacs where the wires going INTO the
> crimp connector were NEVER crimped at the factory!
>
> so, pull on each and every connector in the machine. NONE should come
> off in your hand!
>
> Also look for burned connectors -- and for good measure, change the $2
> thermal fuse on the end of the boiler.
>
> Dave
> I fix 'em not sell 'em
>
> 877 286 2833
|
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Date: 11 Mar 2007 10:38:32
From: Dan Bollinger
Subject: Re: Isomac Tea, intermittent no heat problems
|
> When it's working properly, everything is just as it should be. But that's
> only half the time! Any ideas on where to start looking to solve this problem?
90% of the time, in appliances, the problem is electrical contacts. Especially
so with intermittent problems. Check for loose wiring and crimps. You may have a
problem with the contacts in your pressurestat.
Dan
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