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Date: 15 Jul 2006 21:42:39
From: Ruth
Subject: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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I have a Gaggia Espresso de Luxe, It will heat water and put out
water/steam through the frother but I can't get more than a dribble
from the group head. It's about a year old, I got it as a refurb.
I've run two batchs of CleanCaf thorugh, we use arrowhead spring water
in the machine, we have serious hard water so we don't dare use tap
water, it has about 200 mg/l TDS in it, damned mountains.
It's not improving, I've descaled every 2 to 3 months.
Is it dead Jim?
I've taken the screen etc out and cleaned them by hand...
If it's dead what do I replace it with, do I consider a Capresso
Expresso Pro so I can use the water filter with my bottled spring
water. My partner is not capable of tamping so when he makes coffee we
use ese pods (I know....) but it works for us. So we need something ESE
compatible... but I'm not willing to go with the new Francis Francis
that only uses pods.
Sitting around on Saturday night obsessing about what to do about/for
my sick espresso machine.
Ruth
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 09:20:57
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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I sit corrected -- however, earlier versions did
thanx
dave
Mike Garner wrote:
> In article <1153054370.972339.139390@35g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
> davebobblane@gmail.com says...
> > Your Gaggia, Ruth, being a 'deluxe' does NOT use a 'pea' valve.
> > It has the superior '3 way valve'
> >
> > Cordo! tsk! :-)
> >
> > dave
> > 877 286 2833
> >
> >
> The deluxe does *not* have a three way.
>
> Mike
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 22:02:29
From: D. Ross
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 05:52:51
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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Your Gaggia, Ruth, being a 'deluxe' does NOT use a 'pea' valve.
It has the superior '3 way valve'
Cordo! tsk! :-)
dave
877 286 2833
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 16:35:21
From: D. Ross
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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"daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com > wrote:
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 15:37:27
From: Mike Garner
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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In article <1153054370.972339.139390@35g2000cwc.googlegroups.com >,
davebobblane@gmail.com says...
> Your Gaggia, Ruth, being a 'deluxe' does NOT use a 'pea' valve.
> It has the superior '3 way valve'
>
> Cordo! tsk! :-)
>
> dave
> 877 286 2833
>
>
The deluxe does *not* have a three way.
Mike
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 01:09:21
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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Ruth, I know if the osessing is bad now, wait 'til morning!!
Ross has good points.
But try this: Remove the screen. then remove the 2 x 5 mm hex bolts.
pop that round part out. Your problem may be right there.
clean it, then look into the reaming part of the brew head, clean that.
See the one little hole off center? poke something small and round ==
a large paper clips straightend out -- up into that hole, as far as it
will go. use it to ream out any crud there. Now turn on the machine
and the pump. see what happens. If no water shoots out, the boiler''ll
have to be torn down and re-assembled..
But often, this is all you need to do. and it is NOT ready to scrap.
Also, use a Brita pitcher for the espresso water, filled with your
bottled water.
and IMHO -- do NOT buy a Francis or capresso -- What you have is fine
machine.
DAve
ww.hitechespresso.com
Ruth wrote:
> I have a Gaggia Espresso de Luxe, It will heat water and put out
> water/steam through the frother but I can't get more than a dribble
> from the group head. It's about a year old, I got it as a refurb.
>
> I've run two batchs of CleanCaf thorugh, we use arrowhead spring water
> in the machine, we have serious hard water so we don't dare use tap
> water, it has about 200 mg/l TDS in it, damned mountains.
>
> It's not improving, I've descaled every 2 to 3 months.
>
> Is it dead Jim?
> I've taken the screen etc out and cleaned them by hand...
>
> If it's dead what do I replace it with, do I consider a Capresso
> Expresso Pro so I can use the water filter with my bottled spring
> water. My partner is not capable of tamping so when he makes coffee we
> use ese pods (I know....) but it works for us. So we need something ESE
> compatible... but I'm not willing to go with the new Francis Francis
> that only uses pods.
>
> Sitting around on Saturday night obsessing about what to do about/for
> my sick espresso machine.
>
> Ruth
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 06:47:44
From: D. Ross
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 09:53:01
From: Jack Denver
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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I wouldn't even bother with the disconnect pump thing - just go straight to
the "remove the two Allen screws" step on the page that Cordo gave (
http://www.wholelattelove.com/articles/espresso_machine_repairs.cfm )
Chances are high that the clog is up there.
"D. Ross" <ross@math.hawaii.NOSPAM.edu > wrote in message
news:44b9e05a.3970469@localhost...
>
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 02:23:25
From: Cordo
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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> You might have a chunk of limescale stuck in the grouphead peavalve or in
> the boiler near the exit hole. Disconnect the pump from the boiler and
> run
> it (don't electrocute yourself!), if it pumps water when disconnected from
> the boiler then you have a clog.
Since pics can help, the pea valve is shown at:
http://www.wholelattelove.com/articles/espresso_machine_repairs.cfm
C
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 19:31:46
From: Ruth
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead? I have espresso again.
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I flushed the machine with more descaler, is CleanCaf truely sufficient
to maintain descaling? until no more scale was coming out.
Then I reinstalled the valve, ran the machine, it worked.
Waited for it to cool down and reinstalled the group head and shower
screen, flushed some more.
Then I ran a shot of espresso, it ran perfectly, with beautiful crema,
ahh life is worth living again.
I will watch out for reductions in function, because I'm not ready to
take the machine all the way down today. We also got a britta filter to
filter our crystal geyser spring water with before it goes in the
gaggia.
Thank you, thank you, thank you from the bottom of my re-caffinated
heart,
Ruth
daveb wrote:
> All good suggestions from r. harmon. it may clog again -- soon.
>
> It may also be more than you wish to undertake.
>
> in that case -- flush flush flush -- but give the pump a 10 minute rest
> after 2 or 3 minutes.
>
> Dave
>
>
> Robert Harmon wrote:
> > I second what David says about opening the boiler. If the mineral buildup is
> > as bad as you've indicated descaling with an acidic solution won't do a good
> > enough job. And if the accumulation of deposits is very bad the area around
> > the O-ring needs to be visually checked to prevent future leaks. Remove just
> > the water lines & wires attached to the boiler & thermostats and clearly
> > mark them for easier reassembly. Remove the allen bolts holding the
> > portafilter attachment point. Remove the bolts holding the steam valve. Lift
> > out the boiler (it'll still have water in it).
> >
> > Remove the four allen bolts holding the boiler together and the boiler
> > should split into two parts. The lower part (brass) usually needs little
> > more than blowing out the water paths with compressed air. The upper half
> > (aluminum) will probably need more work. A Dremel tool with a wire brush
> > attachment will make short work of the mineral buildup. If the mating flange
> > is clean & not eroded great, but if is then you'll need to fix that before
> > reassembly. I use a flat piece of aluminum plate that I spray glue different
> > grit emory paper to. I set the boiler part flat on the abrasive & move it
> > about in a nonrepeating motion. I start with a fairly heavy grit & work my
> > way down in steps.
> >
> > Once it appears clean again reassemble the two boiler halves. If the O-ring
> > is still intact & pliable reuse it otherwise order as new one. I lay in a
> > thin bead of Lite RTV silicone gasket sealer (NSF approved) & lay the
> > O-ring on top followed by another thin bead of sealant. Tighten the four
> > bolts until you feel the resistance of the O-ring. Stop & wait for the
> > sealer to partially cure (read directions) before tightening the bolts
> > completely. The sealer usually needs to completely cure for 24 hours and
> > after that you've got a seal that can withstand any temp & pressures an
> > espresso machine can offer up. And I've been assured by the techies at
> > Lite that the sealant will resist incursion by mineral deposits, so your
> > boiler should never leak.
> >
> > Reinstall the boiler, valves, water & electrical wires. Bolt everything back
> > in the same order that you removed them. Plug in the machine, grind some
> > beans, dose, tamp & brew. You'll think you have a new machine!
> > --
> > Robert (duck & cover) Harmon
> > http://tinyurl.com/pou2y
> > http://tinyurl.com/fkd6r
> >
> >
> > "D. Ross" <ross@math.hawaii.NOSPAM.edu> wrote in message
> > news:44babe95.60861694@localhost...
> > >
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Date: 17 Jul 2006 06:39:52
From: D. Ross
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead? I have espresso again.
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Date: 17 Jul 2006 00:35:26
From: Cordo
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead? I have espresso again.
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Agreed. And they are fairly easy to work on, too. Except that one thing to
unscrew that valve out -- I couldn't find anything that fit. A chisel came
close.
C
"D. Ross" <ross@math.hawaii.NOSPAM.edu > wrote in message
news:44bb2fc8.89840373@localhost...
>
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 18:00:54
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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All good suggestions from r. harmon. it may clog again -- soon.
It may also be more than you wish to undertake.
in that case -- flush flush flush -- but give the pump a 10 minute rest
after 2 or 3 minutes.
Dave
Robert Harmon wrote:
> I second what David says about opening the boiler. If the mineral buildup is
> as bad as you've indicated descaling with an acidic solution won't do a good
> enough job. And if the accumulation of deposits is very bad the area around
> the O-ring needs to be visually checked to prevent future leaks. Remove just
> the water lines & wires attached to the boiler & thermostats and clearly
> mark them for easier reassembly. Remove the allen bolts holding the
> portafilter attachment point. Remove the bolts holding the steam valve. Lift
> out the boiler (it'll still have water in it).
>
> Remove the four allen bolts holding the boiler together and the boiler
> should split into two parts. The lower part (brass) usually needs little
> more than blowing out the water paths with compressed air. The upper half
> (aluminum) will probably need more work. A Dremel tool with a wire brush
> attachment will make short work of the mineral buildup. If the mating flange
> is clean & not eroded great, but if is then you'll need to fix that before
> reassembly. I use a flat piece of aluminum plate that I spray glue different
> grit emory paper to. I set the boiler part flat on the abrasive & move it
> about in a nonrepeating motion. I start with a fairly heavy grit & work my
> way down in steps.
>
> Once it appears clean again reassemble the two boiler halves. If the O-ring
> is still intact & pliable reuse it otherwise order as new one. I lay in a
> thin bead of Lite RTV silicone gasket sealer (NSF approved) & lay the
> O-ring on top followed by another thin bead of sealant. Tighten the four
> bolts until you feel the resistance of the O-ring. Stop & wait for the
> sealer to partially cure (read directions) before tightening the bolts
> completely. The sealer usually needs to completely cure for 24 hours and
> after that you've got a seal that can withstand any temp & pressures an
> espresso machine can offer up. And I've been assured by the techies at
> Lite that the sealant will resist incursion by mineral deposits, so your
> boiler should never leak.
>
> Reinstall the boiler, valves, water & electrical wires. Bolt everything back
> in the same order that you removed them. Plug in the machine, grind some
> beans, dose, tamp & brew. You'll think you have a new machine!
> --
> Robert (duck & cover) Harmon
> http://tinyurl.com/pou2y
> http://tinyurl.com/fkd6r
>
>
> "D. Ross" <ross@math.hawaii.NOSPAM.edu> wrote in message
> news:44babe95.60861694@localhost...
> >
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 14:51:37
From: Ruth
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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We took the next step and loosened the brass hexagon and removed it
with the spring and what looks like a pea, it looked solid behind it
and I poked around and all of a sudden water, cloudy water.
Then we turned it back upright and plugged it back in, and the water
ran, so did huge flakes of scale.
We are inclined to keep running water through with the valve out until
no more scale is coming out, is that what we need to do?
Ruth
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 22:36:30
From: D. Ross
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 23:24:48
From: Robert Harmon
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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I second what David says about opening the boiler. If the mineral buildup is
as bad as you've indicated descaling with an acidic solution won't do a good
enough job. And if the accumulation of deposits is very bad the area around
the O-ring needs to be visually checked to prevent future leaks. Remove just
the water lines & wires attached to the boiler & thermostats and clearly
mark them for easier reassembly. Remove the allen bolts holding the
portafilter attachment point. Remove the bolts holding the steam valve. Lift
out the boiler (it'll still have water in it).
Remove the four allen bolts holding the boiler together and the boiler
should split into two parts. The lower part (brass) usually needs little
more than blowing out the water paths with compressed air. The upper half
(aluminum) will probably need more work. A Dremel tool with a wire brush
attachment will make short work of the mineral buildup. If the mating flange
is clean & not eroded great, but if is then you'll need to fix that before
reassembly. I use a flat piece of aluminum plate that I spray glue different
grit emory paper to. I set the boiler part flat on the abrasive & move it
about in a nonrepeating motion. I start with a fairly heavy grit & work my
way down in steps.
Once it appears clean again reassemble the two boiler halves. If the O-ring
is still intact & pliable reuse it otherwise order as new one. I lay in a
thin bead of Lite RTV silicone gasket sealer (NSF approved) & lay the
O-ring on top followed by another thin bead of sealant. Tighten the four
bolts until you feel the resistance of the O-ring. Stop & wait for the
sealer to partially cure (read directions) before tightening the bolts
completely. The sealer usually needs to completely cure for 24 hours and
after that you've got a seal that can withstand any temp & pressures an
espresso machine can offer up. And I've been assured by the techies at
Lite that the sealant will resist incursion by mineral deposits, so your
boiler should never leak.
Reinstall the boiler, valves, water & electrical wires. Bolt everything back
in the same order that you removed them. Plug in the machine, grind some
beans, dose, tamp & brew. You'll think you have a new machine!
--
Robert (duck & cover) Harmon
http://tinyurl.com/pou2y
http://tinyurl.com/fkd6r
"D. Ross" <ross@math.hawaii.NOSPAM.edu > wrote in message
news:44babe95.60861694@localhost...
>
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Date: 16 Jul 2006 10:07:35
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead?
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OOPS, -- snide!
D. Ross wrote:
> "daveb" <davebobblane@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
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Date: 17 Jul 2006 07:50:54
From: Omniryx@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead? I have espresso again.
|
What would happen if you filled the boiler and associated lines and
valves with citric acid solution and let it sit for 2-3 days, a la Paul
Pratt? Might that work?
Will
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Date: 17 Jul 2006 12:48:57
From: Jack Denver
Subject: Re: Is my Gaggia Espresso de Luxe dead? I have espresso again.
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Problem in Gaggia is that acid is likely to attack aluminum as much as it
attacks scale. Especially with mixed metals (brass bottom) you set up a nice
electrical battery that way and corrosion proceeds quickly. The good news is
that you can use the current to start your car.
<Omniryx@gmail.com > wrote in message
news:1153147854.436000.298990@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> What would happen if you filled the boiler and associated lines and
> valves with citric acid solution and let it sit for 2-3 days, a la Paul
> Pratt? Might that work?
>
> Will
>
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