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Date: 27 Nov 2006 15:23:54
From: bernie
Subject: Pics of Never-before-seen Tamper
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A customer brought me a tamper he made out of a 2" hitchball. I'd never seen this done before. Along with the pics are some I've taken today of an overhaul I'm doing on a LM Linea to put in the veggie van. I'm having a bit of a hassle trying to pull the element out of the steam boiler. Even with a 3/4" drive and extension it doesn't want to budge. And some shots of the exterior of the van. The vacuum cannister filter was set on fire whilst trying to clean up hot embers too soon after the roaster fire. http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f209/bernie10/hitchball%20tamper/?sc=1&addtype=local Bernie
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Date: 28 Nov 2006 03:26:47
From: Barry Jarrett
Subject: Re: Pics of Never-before-seen Tamper
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On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:23:54 -0700, bernie <bdigman@zianet.com > wrote: >an overhaul I'm doing on a LM Linea to put in the veggie van. I'm having >a bit of a hassle trying to pull the element out of the steam boiler. >Even with a 3/4" drive and extension it doesn't want to budge. heat the mounting boss with a torch. you don't have to get it red, just get it really hot. then, when it cools down a wee bit, put the socket on and remove the element. *probably* the threads are scaled up, and the expansion/contraction will break the rock up. liquid wrench, mousemilk, et al, are largely useless as the problem is rock, not rust. this is what can happen if one uses a cheeter bar: http://www.mindspring.com/~coffe/lm2_21.jpg . --barry "i didn't do that; i used the torch"
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 17:42:46
From: Randy G.
Subject: Re: Pics of Never-before-seen Tamper
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bernie <bdigman@zianet.com > wrote: >A customer brought me a tamper he made out of a 2" hitchball. I'd never >seen this done before. Along with the pics are some I've taken today of >an overhaul I'm doing on a LM Linea to put in the veggie van. I'm having >a bit of a hassle trying to pull the element out of the steam boiler. >Even with a 3/4" drive and extension it doesn't want to budge. When I was installing auto batteries at Monkey Wards during my college years we very often came upon rusted and corroded hold-downs where the nut often looked like part of the long, threaded, J-hook bolt thingy. because the parts department was not well stocked, and it was a hassle to ring up another invoice for a new part, after cleaning it up on a power wire wheel, we would just go into the bathroom and run the thing under really hot water (they had the water heater set to boiling -10 I think). Then we would tap it on the big, porcelain coated, cast iron sink. We always got them apart this way. The heat along with the vibrations of the tapping, as Flasherly was stating, works wonders. Randy "I tapped it out" G. http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
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Date: 27 Nov 2006 17:02:26
From: Flasherly
Subject: Re: Pics of Never-before-seen Tamper
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bernie wrote: > A customer brought me a tamper he made out of a 2" hitchball. I'd never > seen this done before. Along with the pics are some I've taken today of > an overhaul I'm doing on a LM Linea to put in the veggie van. I'm having > a bit of a hassle trying to pull the element out of the steam boiler. > Even with a 3/4" drive and extension it doesn't want to budge. And some > shots of the exterior of the van. The vacuum cannister filter was set on > fire whilst trying to clean up hot embers too soon after the roaster > fire. I've a 6' piece of pipe I put over a 3/4" drive. I exploded out the inside of a black impact socket on a pitman puller with the pipe over the ratchet's handle. A rather large nut around an inch width that had been in use since ancient times. 3/4" I have is actually a set of two, a ratchet like you have shown and a swivel-head 3/4" breaker. I was trying to keep to the breaker with the pipe extension and only ratchet on semi-loose threads. Had the part out and tightened on a bench where a 100lb. vise is mounted. What did it take after I got back from the parts store replacing the exploded impact socket with a higher grader, thicker impact socket of the same size? . . .just a tiny little tack hammer. That and a can BP Catalyst (seems to have a better reputation than Liquid Wrench). With the tack hammer swing it to hit the nut flush with a sharp crack. Not so many - as the vibration is intended to send the impacts shock closest through the threads going into the boiler. May need the BP Catalyst and repeat the proceedure as needed working back and forth on a few threads at a time as it breaks out. I was working with a steering box near to the size of that aluminum truck's undercarriage - my old Chevy van some woman subsequently took out in a headon. The pipe I was using along the ratchet handle, coming out of the vise would stretched nearly up to 7' up off the floor - maybe getting 5 or 600 lb torque on the Chinese black impact socket that exploded. Didn't even need the pipe extension after cracking the piece a couple of good ones with a tack (2 or 4oz finishing) hammer. A hardened steel 6" flatend out of chisel set to get up there and deliver the same effect as the tack hammer is in too tight working quarters. Impact ratchet may be nice if you've airtools.
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