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Main
Date: 17 Nov 2006 08:25:44
From: Charles
Subject: Roasting beans
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Hi I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost impossible to get in my area). I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for when they are done. I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. Some advice would be appreciated Charles
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 09:06:13
From: daveb
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Higher tech but still cheap -- google up "turbo crazy" dave Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 10:39:29
From: Jack Denver
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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If you have access to either a "hot air popcorn popper" or a "heatgun" these are both superior to using a pan on the stove. The problem with a pan is that it's very easy (especially if you don't know what you are doing) to scorch and burn the surface of the coffee without fully roasting it on the inside. If you do use the pan, its essential to keep the coffee moving at all times so that there is nowhere that one portion of a bean remains in direct contact with the hot metal for more than a few seconds. "Charles" <ce.mason@telkomsa.net > wrote in message news:ejjkqp$fmu$1@ctb-nnrp2.saix.net... > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look > for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles > >
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Date: 18 Nov 2006 01:30:53
From: Ed Needham
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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...and count on filling the house with bean smoke if you pan roast indoors. Smoke alarms will be singing. If you insist on a pan-type roast, a wok does a good job, if it's a thick one. -- ********************* Ed Needham® "to absurdity and beyond!" http://www.homeroaster.com (include [FRIEND] in subject line to get through my SPAM filters) ********************* "Jack Denver" <nunuvyer@netscape.net > wrote in message news:D9OdnatkWtgsSsDYnZ2dnUVZ_vWdnZ2d@comcast.com... > If you have access to either a "hot air popcorn popper" or a "heatgun" > these are both superior to using a pan on the stove. The problem with a > pan is that it's very easy (especially if you don't know what you are > doing) to scorch and burn the surface of the coffee without fully roasting > it on the inside. If you do use the pan, its essential to keep the coffee > moving at all times so that there is nowhere that one portion of a bean > remains in direct contact with the hot metal for more than a few seconds. > > > > "Charles" <ce.mason@telkomsa.net> wrote in message > news:ejjkqp$fmu$1@ctb-nnrp2.saix.net... >> Hi >> I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. >> I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost >> impossible to get in my area). >> I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look >> for >> when they are done. >> I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. >> Some advice would be appreciated >> >> Charles >> >> > >
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 06:46:51
From:
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles I had a message all typed out about how unreliable and messy pan roasting is, not to mention the unknown characteristics of your beans, but instead I'll just give you a great big GO FOR IT. Use the thickest pan you have, cast iron would be good if it isn't one you've lovingly seasoned as that would destroy both the roast and the seasoning. Use a medium to medium-low heat and keep the beans moving constantly. You want them to never be touching the pan at anyone point but to roll and mix always. Stop once the beans start to show some oil spots. This target point is the border between the medium and dark roasts. It's more complicated than that, but this is an easy point to shoot for and since you don't know the character of your beans you might as well aim for something you can hit that will give acceptable results. Here's a rough road map to that point: green - tan - calico - snapping like popcorn - silence and browning - more browning and smoke starts to turn acrid - snaps like rice crispies - more smoke and oil - fire Stop after you start to hear the rice crispie sounds. Expect this to make a big mess as the beans shed their outer paper covering and make a cloud of acrid smoke. Do this outside if you can. The most important newbie advise you can hear is to BE PREPARED! Have everything ready. Roasting beans are hot so have something like a colendar or baking sheet ready to receive them once they are done BEFORE you start. Keep an oven mit or two handy. I hope you enjoy your experience, but don't get discouraged if it doesn't turn out perfect. Matthew
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 09:07:06
From: Dan Bollinger
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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www.homeroasters.org "Charles" <ce.mason@telkomsa.net > wrote in message news:ejjkqp$fmu$1@ctb-nnrp2.saix.net... > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles > >
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 06:05:40
From:
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles sweetmarias.com....This is a good starting point for your quest.. Don..................
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 01:05:37
From: myron
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Well, somewhere between "warm and flaming" is closer to the right parameters..since smoke often is part of the roasting process.. . For pan on the stove roasting see: http://www.sweetmarias.com/skilletmethod.html http://homeroast.wordpress.com/ and go to tip #5. Best.. Myron Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 19:50:59
From: Flasherly
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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jggall01 wrote: > I use a $19 heat gun and a $3 stainless steel dog bowl to roast 2 cups > at a time. I stop after the "rice crispy" sound has been going for 30 > seconds or so (i.e. slightly into 2nd crack), or when the beans just > start getting shiny from the oil. This takes between 10 and 11 > minutes. Throw 'em in a wire strainer right away and keep them moving > so they cool as quickly as possible. > > They start tasting good 48 hours after roasting. > > Aside from requiring electricity, this is pretty lo tech, and very > cheap. And the lowtech achievement award goes to ... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35776 [Disclaimer: Harbor Freight doesn't endorse heatguns for having too much fun at work with 50lbs of green coffee when bored and using employer electricity.]
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Date: 20 Nov 2006 10:58:03
From: Jack Denver
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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OK I bit. I was in a Harbor Freight ($7 20amp GFCI- I just figured out this week (courtesy of a brave UPC that gave it's life) that a certain circuit in my house was completely ungrounded. More below. And they had a stack of the $10 heat guns. I never got into HG roasting but for $10 I couldn't resist any further. Last night I did my first HG/dogbowl roast. Or more accurately, my first HG/stainless mesh strainer/stainless mixing bowl roast (the latter 2 were $1 store items, so the whole rig was $12.72 after tax). I thought it went pretty well. The HF gun has two heat settings and unlike some guns , HIGH involves both turning up the element AND making the fan go faster. On the high setting you get a pretty fair volume of air - enough to move the beans. Also enough to blow the smoke away - the only time I saw visible smoke was when I pointed the gun AWAY from the bowl so it wasn't there to blow it away. I didn't need a spoon at all, just kept the gun moving and flipped the beans around with the handle of the strainer now and then ( this also released some of the chaff). I did 300g in around 16 minutes outside when it was around 45F. Tried it this morning and it was very good - better than my usual 6 minute poppery roast and almost 3x the quantity. What surprised me the most was the problem of cooling. I have my poppery rigged so that the power switch controls the element and throwing the switch starts cooling and this kill the roast almost immediately. There's only 100g or so that is left at the end of a roast which is not much of a bean mass to sustain the roast, especially with cool air blowing. Here, once I turned off the gun (early 2nd crack) the beans kept smoldering and looked threateningly exothermic for a while. I poured them thru the air from bowl to strainer and back again but it took a LOT longer than I expected for them to cool because 300g is enough to form a "pile" that retains a lot of heat. I'll have to add a fan to my setup. Otherwise, I'm a convert, I think. In an older house wiring is often a patchwork quilt of stuff that has been added to and added again. In my case, there's an outlet right next to the utility sink in the basement, which must have been put in when the house was built in the early 50's or shortly thereafter. That outlet was done craftsmanlike in #12 BX armored cable - still the best stuff around, though hard to work with and expensive so it doesn't get used much. The metal sheath forms the ground conductor. Then someone later added a box on the wall above that had one of those porcelain pull chain lights. That they ran in old style 2 conductor #14 NM cable (the kind with the braided cloth cover). Completely ungrounded. So far so good (sorta). A porcelain lightbulb doesn't really have much need for grounding and back in the day this was considered OK. But then the fun began. At some point much later, someone saw the junction box on the wall and said -"Here's a good point to take off a run for a new outlet circuit. So, they opened the box and the code violations began. #1 they didn't pigtail the conductors under wire nuts - instead they double up the wires under the screws to the lightbulb socket. #2 it was a 20 amp breaker but they ran #14 , #3 (and this is the biggie) they looked around the box and couldn't find a ground wire, so they fixed the ground wire to the cable clamp of the box. If the box itself is grounded, this might work (sorta). But, this box was completely ungrounded because it was fed by an ungrounded cable. And so the downstream outlets were themselves without ground even though they were 3 prong types. The other day there was a storm and the power went off for a few seconds and then back on - the surge must have tried to go to ground but there was no ground so instead the poor UPC fried itself (luckily it didn't have anything sensitive connected to it - just the pump on a fish tank.) Even worse, a ground fault would make the junction box "live". Luckily no one ever got hurt from this but they could have. Bigtime because the box is right next to a cast iron sink. One hand on the faucet, one hand reaches up to pull the light chain and somehow comes in contact with the metal box and zap, you're dead. So in addition to reestablishing ground, I changed the outlet to GFCI which it should be anyway next to a sink. Next weekend I'm checking every outlet in the house for ground. "Flasherly" <gjerrell@ij.net > wrote in message news:1163821859.873189.312830@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com... >> > And the lowtech achievement award goes to ... > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35776 > > [Disclaimer: Harbor Freight doesn't endorse heatguns for having too > much fun at work with 50lbs of green coffee when bored and using > employer electricity.] >
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Date: 18 Nov 2006 01:41:57
From: Alan
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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"Charles" wrote > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look > for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles Here's a pretty low tech but effective process used successfully in millions of households in the Middle East for roasting small quantities. . . virtually fool-proof. First of all, use a pot instead of a pan; the higher sides will keep the beans from jumping out when you agitate the pot. Turn the flame up high, throw the handful or so of beans into the pot. Hold the pot about an inch or so above the flames and, using deft little wrist-flicks, keep the beans moving around and flipping over. The advantage to this technique is that you can see immediately the progress of your roasting. Continue agitating the beans over the fire until they get to the color you think you like. (This usually takes less than 5 minutes and, by the way, you don't have to be *constantly* moving the beans around --- just use your discretion; you can hold the pot still for 10-15 seconds at a time). When the beans have got to the color you like, take the pot off the stove, carry it outside, close your eyes, and blow into it a few times while agitating the pot a bit to get rid of the loose chaff. That's it. No covered pans, no thermometers, no stirring paddles, no waiting for the sound of a "crack" (which may or may not occur, depending on humidity, bean water content, degree of heat, etc), no sieves, no blowers. Stove (gas is best) and a pot. Happy roasting.
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Date: 18 Nov 2006 07:46:46
From: Charles
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Hi Many thanks for all the suggestions. At least now I know what to expect and maybe eventually produce a perfectly roasted coffee bean. Charles Alan <in_flagrante@hotmail.com > wrote in message news:Fxt7h.4712$yE6.77@newssvr14.news.prodigy.com... > > "Charles" wrote > > Hi > > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > > impossible to get in my area). > > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look > > for > > when they are done. > > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > > Some advice would be appreciated > > > > Charles > > Here's a pretty low tech but effective process used successfully in > millions of households in the Middle East for roasting small quantities. . . > virtually fool-proof. > > First of all, use a pot instead of a pan; the higher sides will keep the > beans from jumping out when you agitate the pot. > Turn the flame up high, throw the handful or so of beans into the pot. > Hold the pot about an inch or so above the flames and, using deft little > wrist-flicks, keep the beans moving around and flipping over. > The advantage to this technique is that you can see immediately the progress > of your roasting. > Continue agitating the beans over the fire until they get to the color you > think you like. > (This usually takes less than 5 minutes and, by the way, you don't have to > be *constantly* moving the beans around --- just use your discretion; you > can hold the pot still for 10-15 seconds at a time). When the beans have > got to the color you like, take the pot off the stove, carry it outside, > close your eyes, and blow into it a few times while agitating the pot a bit > to get rid of the loose chaff. That's it. No covered pans, no > thermometers, no stirring paddles, no waiting for the sound of a "crack" > (which may or may not occur, depending on humidity, bean water content, > degree of heat, etc), no sieves, no blowers. Stove (gas is best) and a pot. > Happy roasting. > >
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Date: 18 Nov 2006 14:02:15
From: jw
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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It came to pass that on 18 Nov 2006, Charles scribed thusly to all in alt.coffee the following inspiration: > Hi Many thanks for all the suggestions. At least now I know what to > expect and maybe eventually produce a perfectly roasted coffee bean. I'd like to echo the thanks here. I'm glad that someone can come here and ask a question like this and get such good information. More folks will benefit from this than just the OP. THANKS!! -- jw "It is always the simple things that change our lives. And these things never happen when you are looking for them to happen. Life will reveal answers at the pace life wishes to do so. You feel like running, but life is on a stroll. This is how God does things." -- Donald Miller
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 16:37:41
From: jggall01
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated > > Charles I use a $19 heat gun and a $3 stainless steel dog bowl to roast 2 cups at a time. I stop after the "rice crispy" sound has been going for 30 seconds or so (i.e. slightly into 2nd crack), or when the beans just start getting shiny from the oil. This takes between 10 and 11 minutes. Throw 'em in a wire strainer right away and keep them moving so they cool as quickly as possible. They start tasting good 48 hours after roasting. Aside from requiring electricity, this is pretty lo tech, and very cheap. Jim PS - this is an outdoor sport
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Date: 17 Nov 2006 19:03:26
From: Jeff
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Charles wrote: > Hi > I need a low tech answer to roasting coffee beans. > I have managed to get a hand full of beans ( type unknown and almost > impossible to get in my area). > I want to roast them in a pan on the stove but am not sure what to look for > when they are done. > I presume that it is somewhere between warm and smoking. > Some advice would be appreciated My lo tech approach is the "whirly pop" similar to what Sweet Maria's offers. If makes a lot of smoke, especially with large batches, so its really only good for using on an outdoor grill. I use mine on my boat when traveling. (For daily home use I now use a Gene Cafe.) Once its heated up, constant stirring is necessary. It has to get really hot, like 400 degrees, and it takes a number of minutes at that temp, so it takes a real beating. It does tend to stain the popper, so you might want to consider is a dedicated coffee roaster. I, however, still use mine for popcorn, so it can do double service. The biggest problem I had was that I couldn't see the beans without opening and clearing the smoke, which lowered the temp and stalled the roast. Fortunately I like a lighter roast, because I almost always got it a shade lighter than my target. http://www.sweetmarias.com/prod.stovetop-popper.shtml BTW, if you really want to get into this, you need to find a source, or at least accumulate several pounds - it will take a number of tries before you get something on a par with a good local roaster. If there are no advertised sources in your country, try going to a local roaster and begging. That's what I did when I started about 15 years ago. You should get at least a 15-20% discount (which is the "shrinkage" when roasting), but if they're nice if could be half the normal roasted price. Two more things - whatever method you use, it has to be hot, real hot. And you have to agitate to avoid roasting one side of the bean. Also, many roasts don't taste right until 12 hours later. Don't be too eager to sample immediately.
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Date: 20 Nov 2006 21:27:52
From: Flasherly
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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I've had the gun awhile pretty, much new and not used a lot (got tired of a hair dryer for stuff like painting and electrical shrinktape). Handy to have like cheap HF stuff that pays for itself first time around (used a 3/4" wrench setup, sockets 1" to 3 1/2" including a great swivelhead breaker I got from BigLots for $39 long time ago recently for a $450 balljoint job - control arm $67). Also opened the cupboard and pulled out an ancient Poppery and gave it shot last week. Felt somewhat inconsistent, beans get dark into caramel territory in a hurry when they do, plus really having to watch it - feels something might meltdown or go into sparks. Have some future ideas about maybe building a screen contraption ducting w/ the heatgun - though dogbowl sounds quickest. Poppery is ancient (didn't even know what brand it was) ... used it after buying and trying a few scoops in an iRoast2 for the comparison. iRoast2 appears more consistant but isn't as hot - should for what it costs (provided it doesn't break and delivers lots of roasting). Haven't drank hardly six cups of freshroasted yet, though there's definate distinction, as well in looking forward to more roasted fresh flavors yet to be experienced. House wiring is 60-ish, regular Romax - which I haven't gone too mickeymouse after messing once with a fusebox full of Federal Electric breakers and destroying a 30amp for the clothes dryer. Federal Electric get locked behind glass cases in stores, they're so expensive ($60-80 or more for that fuse). Drove aways to find a cheap fire-salvaged FE-60amp and pulled the Romax for some extremely heavy gauge for the dryer and a Lincoln stick welder. Aside from grounding aspect of killing oneself, the other thing that scares me is insufficient wires that heat up and create a fire hazard. I agree - don't impose on electricity is a good motto. Nothing stays on when I walk out the door except for a waterheater set twice at 30min from a 220v timer and the refrigerator. Jack Denver wrote: > OK I bit. I was in a Harbor Freight ($7 20amp GFCI- I just figured out this > week (courtesy of a brave UPC that gave it's life) that a certain circuit in > my house was completely ungrounded. More below. > > And they had a stack of the $10 heat guns. I never got into HG roasting but > for $10 I couldn't resist any further. Last night I did my first HG/dogbowl > roast. Or more accurately, my first HG/stainless mesh strainer/stainless > mixing bowl roast (the latter 2 were $1 store items, so the whole rig was > $12.72 after tax). I thought it went pretty well. The HF gun has two heat > settings and unlike some guns , HIGH involves both turning up the element > AND making the fan go faster. On the high setting you get a pretty fair > volume of air - enough to move the beans. Also enough to blow the smoke > away - the only time I saw visible smoke was when I pointed the gun AWAY > from the bowl so it wasn't there to blow it away. I didn't need a spoon at > all, just kept the gun moving and flipped the beans around with the handle > of the strainer now and then ( this also released some of the chaff). I did > 300g in around 16 minutes outside when it was around 45F. Tried it this > morning and it was very good - better than my usual 6 minute poppery roast > and almost 3x the quantity. What surprised me the most was the problem of > cooling. I have my poppery rigged so that the power switch controls the > element and throwing the switch starts cooling and this kill the roast > almost immediately. There's only 100g or so that is left at the end of a > roast which is not much of a bean mass to sustain the roast, especially with > cool air blowing. Here, once I turned off the gun (early 2nd crack) the > beans kept smoldering and looked threateningly exothermic for a while. I > poured them thru the air from bowl to strainer and back again but it took a > LOT longer than I expected for them to cool because 300g is enough to form a > "pile" that retains a lot of heat. I'll have to add a fan to my setup. > Otherwise, I'm a convert, I think. > > > > In an older house wiring is often a patchwork quilt of stuff that has been > added to and added again. In my case, there's an outlet right next to the > utility sink in the basement, which must have been put in when the house was > built in the early 50's or shortly thereafter. That outlet was done > craftsmanlike in #12 BX armored cable - still the best stuff around, though > hard to work with and expensive so it doesn't get used much. The metal > sheath forms the ground conductor. Then someone later added a box on the > wall above that had one of those porcelain pull chain lights. That they ran > in old style 2 conductor #14 NM cable (the kind with the braided cloth > cover). Completely ungrounded. So far so good (sorta). A porcelain lightbulb > doesn't really have much need for grounding and back in the day this was > considered OK. But then the fun began. At some point much later, someone saw > the junction box on the wall and said -"Here's a good point to take off a > run for a new outlet circuit. So, they opened the box and the code > violations began. #1 they didn't pigtail the conductors under wire nuts - > instead they double up the wires under the screws to the lightbulb socket. > #2 it was a 20 amp breaker but they ran #14 , #3 (and this is the biggie) > they looked around the box and couldn't find a ground wire, so they fixed > the ground wire to the cable clamp of the box. If the box itself is > grounded, this might work (sorta). But, this box was completely ungrounded > because it was fed by an ungrounded cable. And so the downstream outlets > were themselves without ground even though they were 3 prong types. The > other day there was a storm and the power went off for a few seconds and > then back on - the surge must have tried to go to ground but there was no > ground so instead the poor UPC fried itself (luckily it didn't have anything > sensitive connected to it - just the pump on a fish tank.) Even worse, a > ground fault would make the junction box "live". Luckily no one ever got > hurt from this but they could have. Bigtime because the box is right next > to a cast iron sink. One hand on the faucet, one hand reaches up to pull > the light chain and somehow comes in contact with the metal box and zap, > you're dead. So in addition to reestablishing ground, I changed the outlet > to GFCI which it should be anyway next to a sink. Next weekend I'm checking > every outlet in the house for ground.
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Date: 21 Nov 2006 10:30:41
From: Jack Denver
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Some people have tried mounting the gun and aiming it into a bread machine set on "dough" - this seems to work. Sivetz makes a "sample roaster" using a heatgun that does a ridiculously small 60g - you'd be better off w/ the poppery. Or you could gut the poppery and duct the output of the heatgun into the ex-poppery roast chamber. The dogbowl (actually strainer + bowl) approach has as its chief virtue extreme simplicity. You don't need to have a machine shop in your basement, just a few simple off the shelf items and a little patience and it seems to work as well (perhap better) as more automated methods. . It's really a zen-like experience - you are in touch with the coffee as it roasts - you see it, you smell it, you are touching it (with the gun) and at the same time its a mindless enough process that you can think about other stuff too. You don't want to walk away from a running heatgun - since you have to be there to babysit the thing anyway, holding it in your hand gives you something to do. If it was mounted and the phone rang or something, you might be tempted to walk away "for a minute", which is long enough to start a fire. Before building any contraptions, I'd experiment with the easy way first - a lot of people find it to be all that they need or want and though I'm just starting I suspect that I'll be in that group as well. "Flasherly" <gjerrell@ij.net > wrote in message news:1164086872.527183.138940@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com... Have some future ideas about maybe > building a screen contraption ducting w/ the heatgun - though dogbowl > sounds quickest.
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Date: 20 Nov 2006 10:41:22
From:
Subject: Re: Roasting beans
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Jack Denver wrote: > OK I bit. I was in a Harbor Freight ($7 20amp GFCI- I just figured out this > week (courtesy of a brave UPC that gave it's life) that a certain circuit in > my house was completely ungrounded. More below. > > And they had a stack of the $10 heat guns. I never got into HG roasting but > for $10 I couldn't resist any further. Last night I did my first HG/dogbowl > roast. Or more accurately, my first HG/stainless mesh strainer/stainless > mixing bowl roast (the latter 2 were $1 store items, so the whole rig was > $12.72 after tax). I thought it went pretty well. The HF gun has two heat > settings and unlike some guns , HIGH involves both turning up the element > AND making the fan go faster. On the high setting you get a pretty fair > volume of air - enough to move the beans. Also enough to blow the smoke > away - the only time I saw visible smoke was when I pointed the gun AWAY > from the bowl so it wasn't there to blow it away. I didn't need a spoon at > all, just kept the gun moving and flipped the beans around with the handle > of the strainer now and then ( this also released some of the chaff). I did > 300g in around 16 minutes outside when it was around 45F. Tried it this > morning and it was very good - better than my usual 6 minute poppery roast > and almost 3x the quantity. What surprised me the most was the problem of > cooling. I have my poppery rigged so that the power switch controls the > element and throwing the switch starts cooling and this kill the roast > almost immediately. There's only 100g or so that is left at the end of a > roast which is not much of a bean mass to sustain the roast, especially with > cool air blowing. Here, once I turned off the gun (early 2nd crack) the > beans kept smoldering and looked threateningly exothermic for a while. I > poured them thru the air from bowl to strainer and back again but it took a > LOT longer than I expected for them to cool because 300g is enough to form a > "pile" that retains a lot of heat. I'll have to add a fan to my setup. > Otherwise, I'm a convert, I think. > I have been using a similar rig for my roasts for about 8 months now. The only difference is that my heatgun is a Master Appliance type heatgun, which put out a higher airflow at a more moderate temperature than the standard cheapies. I really like the mesh strainer inside stainless mixing bowl as the bean mass gets airflow around the bottom edge and not just the top. I usually do two 9oz batches stirring constantly with a metal whisk to get my 1lb weekly ration. For my cooler I use a larger mesh strainer that fits perfectly over the upturned face of a honeywell turbo fan. I've seen this fan at both Menards and Wal-Mart and others have had success with the same unit. My my 1lb per week habit, I think the heatgun is really the way to go. It gives me larger batches and better results than my old popocrn pumper rig. Matthew
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